Valladolid: A Visual Tour

Valladolid is a smaller colonial town that sits a 2.5 hour bus ride east of Mérida- smack in the middle of the Yucatan.  The ADO bus system has been a Godsend for Jay and I, as they do long trips like this for close to $10 a person.  The seats feel roomy until the little girl in front of you demonstrates that the seats really do recline all. the. way. back. Jay's face was priceless, but I was too consumed with the person selling popcorn and other snacks down the bus aisle moments before we left the terminal.  

As we pulled into Valladolid, we booked our trip up to tiny Chiquila, where our ferry to Isla Holbox would leave a few days later.  (We're getting smarter with the bus system, learning that if you don't book days in advance you usually have to wait hours for a bus with room.) 

Our Air BnB was walking distance according to maps.me, so we set off in the direction of a beautiful park, knowing only that there was a coffee shop and we should inquire there about our keys.  We found the park, dotted with coffee shops and restaurants around the perimeter, and Jay looked at me and shrugged.  I popped my head into the first one and said, "Buscando para mi Air BnB," and the woman delightedly exclaimed, "Chantal!"  She pulled out a large key and took us next to the cafe, to a huge wooden door with a padlock the size of two fists.  We stepped into a magical loft, complete with a chalkboard of suggestions for Valladolid and two cervezas waiting in the fridge.  Another Air BnB win, though the stairs to the loft were double the height of normal ones and we had to grip the railing like we were climbing Everest. We quickly fell in love with the quaint loft and our Valladolid neighborhood. 

The park next to us was home to a beautiful convent, dating back to the 1500s.  One night we were returning from dinner and saw a crowd of people sitting in front of it, staring at the walls, eating churros and crepes, and anticipating something.  Sure enough, moments later, a light show commenced and projectors behind the park displayed a 20-minute history of the region and Convent de San Bernardino de Siena.  Colorful images and a booming voice guided us through the history of this space, and children clapped in rapture as the stone walls became one of the most spectacular "movie theaters" I've ever seen.  

Convent de San Bernardino 

We continue to find ourselves in the middle of moments that we couldn't have crafted with the best of guidebooks and pre-planned itineraries.  Each time we pray, I ask that God continue to show us the beauty in each of these places and He's making sure we're not missing a drop.  

Take a few hours for Cenote Zaci, a partially enclosed cenote just a few minute walk from the town square.  We were swimming in the fresh waters as a short rain passed over, sparking the waterfall into the cenote to surge down onto us.  

Take a longer walk to the Zentik Project and immerse yourself in art and solitude.  

Zentik Project

I'm so glad we took the time to see the Yucatan beyond the beaches and islands.  Inland, city life has its own magic and charm, leaving both Mérida and Valladolid imprinted in our memories.  

The word for Valladolid? Unexpected- in all the best possible ways.   

Yerbabuena

Tresvanbien

For authentic Mayan food, Yerbabuena.  

For empanadas in a romantic garden setting, Tresvanbien.  

For tables directly on the street and fantastic people watching with pizza, Cafeina.  

It's been real, Tulum

Tulum has been growing on us by the day. There is something in the air that gives us a feelings of peace and tranquility. Chantal and I kept expressing similarities Tulum has to parts of Bali. Each shop along the roads had its own spice and flavor that differentiates from the next.

Tulum street food

Getting ready for dinner, Chantal and I had this brilliant idea to bring small change and hit all the local street food carts sprinkled throughout the pueblo: a street food crawl, Mexico style! Each cart was surrounded by groups of locals enjoying the delicious servings for next to nothing. The locals thought it was strange that we stopped at these carts because the "tourists" usually go to sit down restaurants, but we put on our friendly smiles and conversed with the locals in our broken Spanish. Carnitas tacos in freshly made tortillas, hotdogs wrapped with bacon, chicken tostadas, el pastor con queso with a side of the most delicious horchata are just a few of the flavors to name. Each place was better than the next, and it was almost impossible not to get filled up on the first stop. Patience was, indeed, a virtue this time.  Total cost: $5.

After some brainstorming, Chantal and I decided to rent a car for 2 days so we could explore more of Tulum's wonders and also get to Merida the next day (3 hours, 160 miles inland). Grabbing our mini, white Ford Ikon, we raced south to Cenote Kaan Luum, just south of Tulum (recommended by a local restaurant owner). This place was pure magic, as we walked down the 50 foot pier that opened up to the most beautiful aquamarine colored water. Families gathered on the pier, as everyone swam around the cenote. The bottom had soft clay that exfoliated the skin. Chantal and I swam and lay on the dock taking in the amazing views. 

Cenote Kaan Luum 

Where's Jay? Hint: Upside down. In the air.

Cenote Cristalino was our 2nd stop, located between Playa Del Carmen and Tulum. Entering the cenote, you could feel the energy- kids splashing, people snorkeling, families conversing, and kids jumping off ledges. There were easily 4 different sunken fresh water pits that people could swim in. The water was so clear, and it had this sense of rejuvenation once you got out.

The large pit had a cliff, at least 20 feet high, that people would crowd around until they had the courage to jump. This scene had at least a hundred people watching, and the first thing that came to my mind was, "I have to do a backflip." I took the trail up, analyzed the scene, and watched as people built the nerve to jump. I asked around, "Has anybody flipped yet?" No. I took the stage, heels of my feet dangling off the ledge, and hit the gnarliest backflip as locals cheered! Great ending to our last day full day in Tulum.

The next day was the beginning to our adventure inland to Merida. We woke early, drove west a few kilometers, and stopped at a smaller, much more private cenote, Calavera. We got there at 8am, which is when Google told us it opened. We arrived and it was still closed. It stayed that way until 8:45..."Mexico flexico" in full effect. We payed our entrance fee, excitedly; as the first people to get in, we would have some tranquility in the fresh waters.

It got dark and eerie quickly. We were greeted by a massive iguana that looked like a dinosaur from Jurassic Park- it had Chantal shaking in her boots (sandals). This sunken pit had a ladder and a swing, and I was determined to get in. This place had a scary energy; bats flying in and out, fish nibbling at my feet, and strange bubbles surfacing from the bottom. My mind was racing, and as I descended down Chantal nervously took pictures from above. Not going to lie, I scurried to the rope, got a few picture for the Insta, and swam out of there for dear life. There was just something off being there alone, and after researching, Cenote Calavera translates to  "Temple of Doom" and has apparently inherited 125 skeletons from scuba divers who didn't make it out. Scary in the moment, laughing at it after.  El jefe, the iguana, watched up suspiciously the entire time.

Must eats in Tulum:

El Camelo - Mixed ceviche and Coca-Cola in a glass bottle

Umi Sushi Mix - If you need a break from Mexican food

Manglar - Best pizza and pasta in Tulum! 

Xscape Tulum - Huevos Motuleños and banana bread

Dessert Street Cart - Banana, strawberry, caramel, and Nutella crepe wrapped for $1

Tulum Tranquility

This morning I asked Jay what single word he would give to each place we've been so far on our Mexico adventure.

Cancun...tequila.  Isla Mujeres...charm. Playa del Carmen...alive.  

For Tulum, we settled on "soulful".  Tulum is a city of consciousness, thoughtful down to every last detail.  Shops, food, beaches, and architecture are all works of art, each designed as an opportunity to slow down, marvel, and connect.  Gone is the touristy neon of Playa; in its place are dusty mauve pillows, seas of soft white and beige linens, and shabby chic, rustic furniture for sun-streaked travelers to curl into as the evening breeze picks up.  Lanterns drip from trees and the bicycles with wicker baskets are the preferred mode of transportation.  You can get coconut or almond milk in your coffee, vegans are in Heaven, and an alchemist from Paris is nestled smack in the middle of it all.

Yogis mix with divers, with fishermen, with DJs, with chefs, with dreamers, with writers, with children, with languages, with sea salt, with love.  Tulum is more than soulful.  Tulum is soul-overflowing. 

There are two distinct segments of Tulum: the pueblo and the beach.  Our hotel is in the former, and the town boasts more affordable prices and a taste of local living.  Xscape is run by the most helpful, excited staff who eagerly greet us each day.  We've found Mexico welcoming and warm at every juncture. Burrito Amor is a few blocks away, and the home-made coconut tortillas keep us coming back.  Try the pulled pork and pineapple burrito.  

Beauty in simplicity: Xscape Tulum

Home is wherever I'm with you

A few miles from Avenida Tulum is the narrow street that divides the beach from the jungle.  Miles of boutique hotels, restaurants, yoga studios, and shops mosaic Zona Hotelera.   My family stayed at the El Paraiso Hotel, opening their cottage door to sand and hammocks.  We took a boat from their shore to snorkel with turtles, string rays, and electric colored fish; our captain stopped at a shoreline cenote where the cool, fresh water gurgled up against the ocean.  You can feel the difference between the fresh and salty water and the combination seems to wash away worries.

The Azulik Hotel is the crown jewel of Tulum, inviting travelers to be awestruck in the treetop hammocks of Kin Toh (the restaurant), tip toe barefoot through water features in Zak Ik (the boutique), and consider different perspective in Ik Lab (the art installation).  Like many spots in Tulum, the Azulik has created space to just "be". 

"Shopping" at Zak Ik 

Where's Jay?

Where's mama?

Ik Lab, Art Instalattion

A table with a view at Kin Toh, Tulum

A change in perspective at Ik Lab, Tulum

Casa Jaguar 

My brother and Jay loved the beachfront Ahua Jungle Gym with Flintstone style weights and contraptions, Raw Love has rejuvenating smoothie bowls and vegan pad thai, and Hotel Sotavento's Mexican pizza with carne asada is non-negotiable.  Casa Jaguar shone with craft cocktails, the red snapper catch of the day, and ossobuco; my sister is a churro connoisseur and gave them top ratings.  Jay's quote of the trip is, "Where is the bad food? We can't find bad food!" My mama hasn't found a guacamole that doesn't make her smile, and my new favorite Spanish word is "totopos", because we always need a few more tortilla chips. 

Raw Love relaxation

Jungle Gym gains

Raw Love vegan Pizza and Vanilla Smoothie Bowl

As we stay goodbye to our visitors, we welcome the second half of our trip.  We have a few more soulful days in Tulum, then head west and inland to the capital of the Yucatan: Merida.  Thank you to everyone following our journey.  Leave us questions in the comments or shoot us a message if there are things you want to hear more about.  

Isla Mujeres: A Love Affair

Not since Gili T have we fallen so hard for an island, but Isla Mujeres is our main squeeze.  If we don't come home, check here first.  We might be swimming with the whale sharks, diving in the aquamarine waters, eating lobster quesadillas, or sipping mezcal with live music around us and cats at our feet.  This island was made for us.

The smooth ferry ride took less than half an hour from Puerto Juarez, and the boat was near empty.  $15 gets you a roundtrip ticket, and as you coast through the Caribbean you can feel yourself shaking off the Cancun crowds and clichés. Although Isla Mujeres isn't as untouched as it once was, it's welcoming and quaint.  We walked a few blocks from the dock to Posada del Mar, where we have a view of the ocean from the third floor.  We're in Heaven: across from Playa Centro, around the corner from Carey Dive Center, motorbike rentals on the corner.

The streets around us are lined with colorful shops, eclectic restaurants, music, and laughter.  Javi's boasts a mean ceviche; Mamacita has a lobster quesadilla and craft cocktail list that are spiced with host-Victor's banter, and the cactus that comes with the chips is a treat.  Mentiras is a must for al pastor tacos and the mezcal mixed drinks help cut the heat.  Feel like a kid again as you eat breakfast in a rope swing hung from the ceiling at Lola Valentina- Jay's Mexican Benedict was gone before I could try it, and my tofu scramble came with some of the best green salsa I've ever had.  Need a break for local cuisine?  Try Sushi Asia Caribe, owned by an American couple who raised their kids here after relocating decades ago.  Some fusion menus suffer because they try to do too much, but Asian Caribe does it all well.  My dragon roll smiled at me and the coconut shrimp is pan seared, not deep fried.  We watched plate after plate served around us, each greeted with delight.  It's hard not to marvel at each moment in Isla Mujeres- it's safe, cozy, clean, and vibrant.  

Sushi Asia Caribe 

Mentiras

We love the street art and being able to walk shore to shore in a few minutes.  The sand is soft and you can see to the bottom in every direction- no sea weed, no coral: pristine bottoms. Each house has different details, colors, and decorations- I love the house with the swan staircase and am a big fan of "Mexico time" (1 Mexican minute is about 15-20 American minutes).  As the sun goes down, you can hear the guitar strings dancing in the breeze and life can't really seem to get much better. 

First Stop, Cancun

We kicked off our month in the Yucatan with a quick stop in Cancun. If you don't know how Chantal and I like to travel, we like to stay out of the tourist traps in general. We steered clear of the all-inclusive resorts that Cancun offers, and opted for a convenient location for a day en route to our second stop, Isla Mujeres.

After minor delays in the airport, a quick ADO bus ride, and attempted taxi negotiation, we landed at Hotel Del Sol. This is not your 5-star hotel with pools and jacuzzis, but it has air conditioning, a great rooftop deck, and 24-hour Mexican music videos on the television. More importantly, it's right across the street from Puerto Juarez so we'll have an easy transition to Isla Mujeres. There's an OXXO convenient store across the street and a local restaurant called Mandinga. It's a cheap taxi or bus ride into the city, but generally a quiet area with more locals than tourists. 

View from Hotel del Sol rooftop 

El Meco

I woke up the next morning to Chantal saying, "I have a plan!" Here we go, Day 1 is about to get interesting. There are ancient Mayan ruins 2 miles away ("1 mile-ish" according to Chantal), and we "adventured" our way there on foot. 30 minutes later, we showed up to El Meco drenched in sweat, payed 55 pesos each, and walked around the Mayan pyramid and other ruin buildings. Massive iguanas inhabit the area, and at one point Chantal and I felt like we were getting surrounded. The site was basically empty, and it is a rare, must-go if you are in Cancun and want to get out of the tourist areas.

This day also happened to be World Cup Semi-Finals, and I really wanted to watch the Croatia vs. England game. After asking local taxi drivers, we landed on La Taberna in downtown Cancun, which reminded us of a Mexican Hooters. It was packed for the game and tequila was flying as Croatia won 2-1 in extra time... Go Croatia, beat France!

We enjoyed the rest of the day by wandering through downtown Cancun, exploring our way all the way back to our hotel. Day 1 complete, with 9 miles clocked.

Street art in Downtown Cancun

The streets of Puerto Juarez

We'll be on Isla Mujeres until Monday, so check back in- we'll be diving and hopefully seeing the whale sharks!