Last but NEVER least, Holbox.

Hammock life

Island Jay

Island CB

As we rounded the last stop of our journey, Chantal and I knew we had to end it on a small, beautiful, white sand/clear water island. And that is what we did. We left Velladolid, by bus, of course, to a tiny northern town, Chiquita, where we took a half hour ferry over to Isla de Holbox. (The island is pronounced Hol-bosh so you don't make the mistake we did originally). 

We were greeted by a nice local in a dune-buggy who bumped us down dirt paths with huge potholes filled with the previous night's rain water. We pulled up to our Air BnB that was literally a tiki hut tucked away in the jungle. Let's just say we lived the tropical island life during the day... and had a rustic experience at night. The days on the island are pure magic. The sun is beaming, the aquamarine water sparkles, and hammocks sway in the Caribbean air. There were days where we just walked down the beach for miles, found a sandy patch where dots of other people were far away, and relaxed in the water for hours.  The shoreline is shallow water for easily 50 yards, so we could submerge ourselves but sit comfortably and drink a Sol. We enjoyed the island-style life to the point where we only had an assumption of what time it was based on where the sun was shining. 

At night though...different story. I wasn't kidding when I said jungle. There is a simple equation to this: Jungle + thatched roof + unknown nocturnal animals + odd sounds = no sleep. The first couple nights were frightening, though we were trying not to be tourists and overreact. Put it this way- it's nighttime, you're getting ready for bed, there's no such thing as WiFi, the lights are out, and you hear loud sounds all around you, ESPECIALLY on the top of your tied-together straw roof. It literally sounded like someone was thrashing our roof open... for HOURS. I know we used to be TEAM NO-STOP in Bali, but we are TEAM NO SLEEP. It got to the point where we had to WhatsApp the landlord letting him know we "feel unsafe, and want to see what our options are." Laughing at it now, he met with us, and said, "Guys, it's just large raccoons. They can't break in, and what do you expect in a jungle on an island?" We felt a little silly but ended up getting our best sleep during the day. On the beach. Far from the jungle. 

Other than that, Holbox exceeded our expectations on all levels. The food was amazing, especially the filet mignon at  La Parrilla and the famous lobster pizza and homemade pasta you can find around the small town plaza. Chantal's repeating, "Tell them about the shrimp tacos on the banana tortillas at Mardarina and the motuleños you loved at La Isla Del Colibri." Alma Bar has a rooftop pool and specializes in mojitos and epic sunsets. 

We sat outside small street-side restaurants, watched travelers mixed with locals, and ate delicious food as barefoot locals jammed out on the ukulele and drum.  We stopped to watch a pickup basketball game as we ate dessert. We hit muddy potholes in a golf cart that maxed out at 7 miles-per-hour and that was the fastest we went all week.  Slowed down.  Kept it simple. 

Valladolid: A Visual Tour

Valladolid is a smaller colonial town that sits a 2.5 hour bus ride east of Mérida- smack in the middle of the Yucatan.  The ADO bus system has been a Godsend for Jay and I, as they do long trips like this for close to $10 a person.  The seats feel roomy until the little girl in front of you demonstrates that the seats really do recline all. the. way. back. Jay's face was priceless, but I was too consumed with the person selling popcorn and other snacks down the bus aisle moments before we left the terminal.  

As we pulled into Valladolid, we booked our trip up to tiny Chiquila, where our ferry to Isla Holbox would leave a few days later.  (We're getting smarter with the bus system, learning that if you don't book days in advance you usually have to wait hours for a bus with room.) 

Our Air BnB was walking distance according to maps.me, so we set off in the direction of a beautiful park, knowing only that there was a coffee shop and we should inquire there about our keys.  We found the park, dotted with coffee shops and restaurants around the perimeter, and Jay looked at me and shrugged.  I popped my head into the first one and said, "Buscando para mi Air BnB," and the woman delightedly exclaimed, "Chantal!"  She pulled out a large key and took us next to the cafe, to a huge wooden door with a padlock the size of two fists.  We stepped into a magical loft, complete with a chalkboard of suggestions for Valladolid and two cervezas waiting in the fridge.  Another Air BnB win, though the stairs to the loft were double the height of normal ones and we had to grip the railing like we were climbing Everest. We quickly fell in love with the quaint loft and our Valladolid neighborhood. 

The park next to us was home to a beautiful convent, dating back to the 1500s.  One night we were returning from dinner and saw a crowd of people sitting in front of it, staring at the walls, eating churros and crepes, and anticipating something.  Sure enough, moments later, a light show commenced and projectors behind the park displayed a 20-minute history of the region and Convent de San Bernardino de Siena.  Colorful images and a booming voice guided us through the history of this space, and children clapped in rapture as the stone walls became one of the most spectacular "movie theaters" I've ever seen.  

Convent de San Bernardino 

We continue to find ourselves in the middle of moments that we couldn't have crafted with the best of guidebooks and pre-planned itineraries.  Each time we pray, I ask that God continue to show us the beauty in each of these places and He's making sure we're not missing a drop.  

Take a few hours for Cenote Zaci, a partially enclosed cenote just a few minute walk from the town square.  We were swimming in the fresh waters as a short rain passed over, sparking the waterfall into the cenote to surge down onto us.  

Take a longer walk to the Zentik Project and immerse yourself in art and solitude.  

Zentik Project

I'm so glad we took the time to see the Yucatan beyond the beaches and islands.  Inland, city life has its own magic and charm, leaving both Mérida and Valladolid imprinted in our memories.  

The word for Valladolid? Unexpected- in all the best possible ways.   

Yerbabuena

Tresvanbien

For authentic Mayan food, Yerbabuena.  

For empanadas in a romantic garden setting, Tresvanbien.  

For tables directly on the street and fantastic people watching with pizza, Cafeina.  

Mérida Magic

As we pulled into Mérida, we realized we weren't in Kansas anymore (and by Kansas, I mean a beach town, a tourist haven, or small pueblo).  Mérida is the capital of the Yucatán, the largest city in the peninsula; it has the highest indigenous population (60% Mayan) and evident Spanish, French, and British influences.  

Many of the streets are cobblestone, and the colorful colonial buildings have ornate, carved doors and window boxes reminiscent of Paris or Barcelona.  On Sunday, everyone gathers in the town square.  Artists and food vendors fill the plaza, locals blow bubbles and giddy children leap for them, a band in gold suits fills the air with lively music, and people flood the streets to dance for hours.  

The Sunday scene

Around sunset, a ceremony is performed to lower the flag from the plaza center, and police march proudly in a procession. A Sunday mass echoes from Cathedral de Mérida, a towering structure, adorned with big brass door handles, that was built in the 1500s with stones from the Mayan ruins.

A mile from the city center are colonial mansions, many of which sprung up during a period of prosperity at the end of the 19th century.  Around this time, it is rumored that Mérida housed more millionaires than anywhere else in the world.  Today, many of those mansions have been repurposed into office buildings, museums, and banks.  To our good fortune, some are now hotels.  

Our Air BnB, Villa Mérida, is one of the most beautiful, peaceful places I've ever seen.  The rich, warm colors pop from the walls, fountains drown out the city noise, and vaulted ceilings, chandeliers, and tall doors that open with skeleton keys are daily reminders of the historical roots of this home.  Patrick is a charismatic host, excited to chat and share Mérida suggestions. All of the floors are original, and the tiles stay cool on the hottest of days.  Orange blossom soap and shampoo fill the air, and I think I'll always think of Mérida when I smell that sweet fragrance.

We've fallen into a lazy rhythm of waking up slowly, wandering down the block to the market, selecting the right ingredients, and cooking an afternoon breakfast in the large kitchen that sits beyond the pool at Villa Mérida.  We read and write for a few hours, then venture to town.  We sit on park benches and people watch, we follow the smells in the air to the best street food, we try to mimic the foot patterns of the dancers, and we laugh with the crowds of joyful locals.

If Mérida had a word, it would be "energy"- or "tradition" - or "free".

Pit Stop: Chichén Itzá

As we said goodbye to Tulum, we directed our rental car 160+ miles across the Yucatán to capital city, Mérida. This is a predominantly two lane highway with dense jungle on both sides.  Small towns pop up every 30 miles or so, but generally it's a whole lot of sky and trees.  One of the main reasons we rented the car was to stop at Chichén Itzá (about two hours from Tulum and one hour from Mérida).  Recently given the acclaimed "Wonder of the World" status, we were excited to see this ancient Mayan city. 

As you pull off the highway, locals wave big hats at you, reminding you that you are not adapted to the climate and could potentially evaporate without sun protection.  As you pay a few dollars to park, you find yourself at the front of a Disneyland-esque opening gate and it costs 255 pesos a person to enter (about $25 for the two of us).  Once inside, you walk down a long dirt road to reach the heart of the ruins, flanked with wood carvers hocking masks, coloring clothing vendors, and -my favorite- the vendors with the noise makers that sound like a jaguar snarl.  In the heat, it's hard to really know what's happening.  The guided groups had hats and umbrellas, but Jay and I couldn't be bothered.  We forged on. 

The ruins truly are spectacular, especially when you think about how long they've endured.  El Castillo, the focal temple, is crowded with tourists trying to get the perfect angle.  Jay set up his GoPro and we proceeded to jump about 1000 times trying to get the right shot.  We were dripping in sweat and I felt like Honey Boo Boo being badgered by a stage mom, but Jay was relentless. (Considering we've been living on tortillas, cheese, and caramel, I chalked it up to a modified Cross Fit: Chichén Itzá style.)

The massive cenote is blocked for swimming, but the ancient Mayans sent sacrifices of jade, gold, and humans into its depths, so we were content to marvel from above.  Overall, Chichén Itzá echoes with history, but is a bit muted by the tourist herds and haggling vendors. 

See hats and umbrellas in the background.

It's been real, Tulum

Tulum has been growing on us by the day. There is something in the air that gives us a feelings of peace and tranquility. Chantal and I kept expressing similarities Tulum has to parts of Bali. Each shop along the roads had its own spice and flavor that differentiates from the next.

Tulum street food

Getting ready for dinner, Chantal and I had this brilliant idea to bring small change and hit all the local street food carts sprinkled throughout the pueblo: a street food crawl, Mexico style! Each cart was surrounded by groups of locals enjoying the delicious servings for next to nothing. The locals thought it was strange that we stopped at these carts because the "tourists" usually go to sit down restaurants, but we put on our friendly smiles and conversed with the locals in our broken Spanish. Carnitas tacos in freshly made tortillas, hotdogs wrapped with bacon, chicken tostadas, el pastor con queso with a side of the most delicious horchata are just a few of the flavors to name. Each place was better than the next, and it was almost impossible not to get filled up on the first stop. Patience was, indeed, a virtue this time.  Total cost: $5.

After some brainstorming, Chantal and I decided to rent a car for 2 days so we could explore more of Tulum's wonders and also get to Merida the next day (3 hours, 160 miles inland). Grabbing our mini, white Ford Ikon, we raced south to Cenote Kaan Luum, just south of Tulum (recommended by a local restaurant owner). This place was pure magic, as we walked down the 50 foot pier that opened up to the most beautiful aquamarine colored water. Families gathered on the pier, as everyone swam around the cenote. The bottom had soft clay that exfoliated the skin. Chantal and I swam and lay on the dock taking in the amazing views. 

Cenote Kaan Luum 

Where's Jay? Hint: Upside down. In the air.

Cenote Cristalino was our 2nd stop, located between Playa Del Carmen and Tulum. Entering the cenote, you could feel the energy- kids splashing, people snorkeling, families conversing, and kids jumping off ledges. There were easily 4 different sunken fresh water pits that people could swim in. The water was so clear, and it had this sense of rejuvenation once you got out.

The large pit had a cliff, at least 20 feet high, that people would crowd around until they had the courage to jump. This scene had at least a hundred people watching, and the first thing that came to my mind was, "I have to do a backflip." I took the trail up, analyzed the scene, and watched as people built the nerve to jump. I asked around, "Has anybody flipped yet?" No. I took the stage, heels of my feet dangling off the ledge, and hit the gnarliest backflip as locals cheered! Great ending to our last day full day in Tulum.

The next day was the beginning to our adventure inland to Merida. We woke early, drove west a few kilometers, and stopped at a smaller, much more private cenote, Calavera. We got there at 8am, which is when Google told us it opened. We arrived and it was still closed. It stayed that way until 8:45..."Mexico flexico" in full effect. We payed our entrance fee, excitedly; as the first people to get in, we would have some tranquility in the fresh waters.

It got dark and eerie quickly. We were greeted by a massive iguana that looked like a dinosaur from Jurassic Park- it had Chantal shaking in her boots (sandals). This sunken pit had a ladder and a swing, and I was determined to get in. This place had a scary energy; bats flying in and out, fish nibbling at my feet, and strange bubbles surfacing from the bottom. My mind was racing, and as I descended down Chantal nervously took pictures from above. Not going to lie, I scurried to the rope, got a few picture for the Insta, and swam out of there for dear life. There was just something off being there alone, and after researching, Cenote Calavera translates to  "Temple of Doom" and has apparently inherited 125 skeletons from scuba divers who didn't make it out. Scary in the moment, laughing at it after.  El jefe, the iguana, watched up suspiciously the entire time.

Must eats in Tulum:

El Camelo - Mixed ceviche and Coca-Cola in a glass bottle

Umi Sushi Mix - If you need a break from Mexican food

Manglar - Best pizza and pasta in Tulum! 

Xscape Tulum - Huevos Motuleños and banana bread

Dessert Street Cart - Banana, strawberry, caramel, and Nutella crepe wrapped for $1

Lo Siento, Pablo Escobar

Yesterday we did NOT see Pablo Escobar's Tulum mansion (turned hotel- Casa Malca).  We did take a taxi to its gates. We were told we would need to spend 2000 pesos. We were carrying 300. We did NOT get inside those gates.  We did try to enter from the beach side.  We did get into his pool and fantastic beach teepees.  We did NOT get inside Pablo Escobar's Tulum mansion.

On the way to the beach, as we planned our alternative entrance to Casa Malca, we saw a cenote on our favorite app, Maps.me.  It was within walking distance, even in the 100 degree heat, and although we also tried to sneak down this path, we were stopped and charged 100 pesos.  We gave in, desperate to jump in the cool, fresh water.  

Excitedly, we shuffled down the jungle path to the Cenote Tulum (Yax Chen).  What we found was closer to a dirty pond with a thick top layer of bugs.  We did NOT swim in Yax Chen.  We got a refund and surged to the ocean for a breeze and to regroup.  

We inched closer and closer to Casa Malca, slipping into his fantastic circular bush for a photo.  It sounds worse now that I'm describing it, but we got as close as the pool and outdoor teepees.  The inside looks stunning in Instagram photos.  We just weren't willing to pay $100+ for them. 

5 star landscaping.  Sorry for trespassing, Señor Escobar.  

Tulum Tranquility

This morning I asked Jay what single word he would give to each place we've been so far on our Mexico adventure.

Cancun...tequila.  Isla Mujeres...charm. Playa del Carmen...alive.  

For Tulum, we settled on "soulful".  Tulum is a city of consciousness, thoughtful down to every last detail.  Shops, food, beaches, and architecture are all works of art, each designed as an opportunity to slow down, marvel, and connect.  Gone is the touristy neon of Playa; in its place are dusty mauve pillows, seas of soft white and beige linens, and shabby chic, rustic furniture for sun-streaked travelers to curl into as the evening breeze picks up.  Lanterns drip from trees and the bicycles with wicker baskets are the preferred mode of transportation.  You can get coconut or almond milk in your coffee, vegans are in Heaven, and an alchemist from Paris is nestled smack in the middle of it all.

Yogis mix with divers, with fishermen, with DJs, with chefs, with dreamers, with writers, with children, with languages, with sea salt, with love.  Tulum is more than soulful.  Tulum is soul-overflowing. 

There are two distinct segments of Tulum: the pueblo and the beach.  Our hotel is in the former, and the town boasts more affordable prices and a taste of local living.  Xscape is run by the most helpful, excited staff who eagerly greet us each day.  We've found Mexico welcoming and warm at every juncture. Burrito Amor is a few blocks away, and the home-made coconut tortillas keep us coming back.  Try the pulled pork and pineapple burrito.  

Beauty in simplicity: Xscape Tulum

Home is wherever I'm with you

A few miles from Avenida Tulum is the narrow street that divides the beach from the jungle.  Miles of boutique hotels, restaurants, yoga studios, and shops mosaic Zona Hotelera.   My family stayed at the El Paraiso Hotel, opening their cottage door to sand and hammocks.  We took a boat from their shore to snorkel with turtles, string rays, and electric colored fish; our captain stopped at a shoreline cenote where the cool, fresh water gurgled up against the ocean.  You can feel the difference between the fresh and salty water and the combination seems to wash away worries.

The Azulik Hotel is the crown jewel of Tulum, inviting travelers to be awestruck in the treetop hammocks of Kin Toh (the restaurant), tip toe barefoot through water features in Zak Ik (the boutique), and consider different perspective in Ik Lab (the art installation).  Like many spots in Tulum, the Azulik has created space to just "be". 

"Shopping" at Zak Ik 

Where's Jay?

Where's mama?

Ik Lab, Art Instalattion

A table with a view at Kin Toh, Tulum

A change in perspective at Ik Lab, Tulum

Casa Jaguar 

My brother and Jay loved the beachfront Ahua Jungle Gym with Flintstone style weights and contraptions, Raw Love has rejuvenating smoothie bowls and vegan pad thai, and Hotel Sotavento's Mexican pizza with carne asada is non-negotiable.  Casa Jaguar shone with craft cocktails, the red snapper catch of the day, and ossobuco; my sister is a churro connoisseur and gave them top ratings.  Jay's quote of the trip is, "Where is the bad food? We can't find bad food!" My mama hasn't found a guacamole that doesn't make her smile, and my new favorite Spanish word is "totopos", because we always need a few more tortilla chips. 

Raw Love relaxation

Jungle Gym gains

Raw Love vegan Pizza and Vanilla Smoothie Bowl

As we stay goodbye to our visitors, we welcome the second half of our trip.  We have a few more soulful days in Tulum, then head west and inland to the capital of the Yucatan: Merida.  Thank you to everyone following our journey.  Leave us questions in the comments or shoot us a message if there are things you want to hear more about.  

From Cenotes to Cozumel

Cenotes Dos Ojos 

Underwater Cenotes shot

Scuba diving a cenote was a must for me and Chantal, and we arranged a trip to make it happen. Researching best companies, we fell upon Tank-Ha Dive Center as our go-to. They catered to our needs, and assembled a van to take us to Cenotes Dos Ojos for scuba (Chantal and I) and snorkel (Karen, Hunter, Cheyenne) tours. We made our way into the jungle with our dive master, Irati.

30 minutes later we arrived at the site near Tulum filled with palm trees, iguanas, and local Mayan housing. Dos Ojos is one of the most extravagant diving sites in the Yucatan Peninsula, and is one of the largest underwater cave systems. This cenote gets its name from 2 massive sinkholes ranging 70 meters in diameter shaped like "2-eyes." This was our first fresh-water dive in tight quarters as we floated through stalactites and stalagmites. Fossils were imprinted in the limestone as we followed a yellow rope with only flashlights to look ahead. The breath-taking views had us feeling like we entered another world. At one point, we had Hunter free-diving above, giving us the "hang-loose" sign. Definitely memorable moments never to forget. If you haven't dived a cenote in the past, put it on your bucket list and check it off ASAP.

Irati, our dive master, was so informative, warm, and fun to be around. It was an A+ day overall, and if you are in Playa, you must go to Tank-Ha Dive Center for tours- 5 Star!

The next day, the family decided to pick up round-trip ferry tickets to Cozumel, an island off the coast of Playa. A 45 minute boat excursion led us to one of the best days of our trip. We hopped off and satisfied our growling stomachs at Amparo's Breakfast Bistro. The freshly squeezed juice smoothies, Mexican skillets, cheese hash browns, and lobster benedict (topped with bacon and caramelized onions) satisfied every craving possible.

The west-side of the island, where we docked, is full of tourists and shops. We had better plans... We rented our very own soft-top Jeep for the day and drove east across the island, where it was more private and secluded. This was probably the best move of our life as we hit Punta Morena, a calm and quiet beach with colorful hammocks swinging from every direction.  There were maybe two other people on this whole beach as we played music, laughed, and floated in the crystal blue waters. Hunter was flying his drone, Cheyenne found a local with a machete to open her coconut, Karen peacefully relaxed in the shade, and Chantal and I swung in neon-colored hammocks... Something out of a movie.

After spending a few hours in our magical paradise, we adventured north to check out new spots. We pulled off the side of the road to set up Hunter's drone to follow the Jeep when, all of a sudden, we were pinned by a frenzy of vans and cars. Little kids and parents jumped out excitedly and ran to the beach. We were puzzled and distraught at first, until we noticed everyone wearing matching shirts. After asking a few questions, we noticed that we'd stopped at a turtle conservation area, where turtle nests were marked in the sand, pinned by red flag markers. We couldn't help but be a part of this movement.

The timing was perfect. The camp leader gathered a group of at least 50  as they uncovered over 100 freshly hatched sea turtles in the sand. Everyone cheered as the babies made their way to their ocean home. It was one of the most moving events we have ever witnessed, and felt like we were supposed to be there at that moment.

When we travel, instead of making strict plans and following itineraries, we end up where we're supposed to be and notice how life's surprises are endless when you take time to be present. 

Playing in Playa

Entrance to CASA BOHEME

Casa Boheme has been a magical home for us this week in Playa del Carmen, and we highly recommend you explore Air BnB when you travel.  Each night we leave the loud, tourist streets and zig zag through local blocks to get to our oasis.  Large families sit together every night to eat and laugh and talk into the night.  Babies bounce on laps, dogs circle at feet, the smell of fresh tortillas tranquilizes.  Mexico is charming.

We've had the gift of my mama, brother, and sister joining us for the week, and they're staying about a mile away at Acanto Hotel.  These condos are tucked away on a block by the beach; they feature balconies that look out to large trees with sweeping vines that sway next to strings of lights and colorful lanterns. All a pack, we've explored the oceans, jungle, and cenotes (See Jay's blog above). We've also embarked on a foodie tour.  Let's start with breakfast...

BREAKFAST IN PLAYA DEL CARMEN:

Madrez! Cafe- With a tiny kitchen and patio seating for about 10 patrons, Madrez! is small in-size and large in flavor. My brother made moaning noises with his savory waffle that came with eggs, bacon, and syrup on top, and I think Jay teared up at his first sip of homemade lemonade.  My sister's caramel latte was something from a dream. 

Dos Huevos- Down on the quieter end of bustling 5th Avenue, past Ave. CTM, sits unassuming Dos Huevos where you can go decadent (Jay's chicken and waffle tower) or healthy (a fresh fruit smoothie or bowl). 

Amorino: Gelato al Naturale- Ice cream for breakfast? Only if you add a crepe, caramel, and whipped cream. Each crepe comes with three gelato flavors and we're partial to the vanilla, yogurt, and milk chocolate (although the banana sorbet almost made this an appropriate adult breakfast).

DINNER IN PLAYA DEL CARMEN:

"Where did lunch go?" you might ask.  Well, on "Mexico time", breakfast is around noon and a churro loop sustains you until dinner.  We've all agreed that Playa has some of the best food in the world, and I personally wasn't expecting the variety and creative flavors.

Plank- Our server had a wooden bowtie and the rest of the experience followed in class and fun.  Steaks are served with table-side stones so that you can sear each bite before eating.  Our dessert brownie came on a chilled stone. Who doesn't love a place that encourages guests to play with their food?

Piola- Looking for Italian food in Playa? Nestled in the part of Ave. 38 that's completely enclosed in trees, Jay and I felt like we were back in Bali. Live acoustic music fills the art and colorful lanterns sway from the ceiling.  Zucchini noodles can be subbed into any pasta dish and my mom's salmon was dreamy. 

Imprevist- Tucked away from the lively crowds, Imprevist sits on a cobblestone street with a colorful candle shop glowing nearby.  This is the best food I've ever had- they do all sorts of Asian favorites and my brother had to order a second tuna tartare because the lemon whip on top was too good.  Jay's vindaloo was as beautiful as my green curry and we were pleasantly surprised by the octopus appetizer that the chef sent out.  Innovative, fresh, and flavorful! 

Live Aqua Boutique Hotel Rooftop Pool- Jay and I stumbled upon this rooftop restaurant when we were walking home one night.  Sitting a few stories above the city, tropical house music and sparkling wine had us lulled into a trance.  A loud pop surprised us and fireworks went up from the street next to us, dripping down into the pool next to our table.  This is one of the most intimate places we've found on our travels.  Get the ceviche!

ART:

La 5th Hacienda- As delicious as the food in Playa del Carmen, the art scene is world class.  If you're looking for beautiful ceramic work, large canvas pieces from local artists, or one of a kind glass work, go see Alex at La 5th Hacienda.  He spent so much time talking through the history of the pieces in his shop and all larger items ship for free.  He excitedly wrote out recommendations for the upcoming cities on our trip and his shop is a must-stop. 

RELAXATION:

Quinto Elemento Spa- This tiny spa on Ave. CTM is easy to pass, but not to be missed.  Our deep tissue massages were a bargain but some of the best we've ever had.  The massage concluded with caramel cake and apple cider- hard to top that.  There's something about the caramel in Mexico...

At the risk of make you think that all we're doing is eating and laying around, I'm passing the computer to Jay so he can fill you in on our adventures in Playa.  Will the food in Tulum be able to complete? We'll let you know next week. 

Octopus at Imprevist

5th Avenue sparkle

Casa Boheme

Live Aqua

Wrapping up Isla

Our last day on Isla Mujeres fell on World Cup, and we watched France come out the winner at Nash's Sports Bar.  It was an equal split between Croatia and France fans, and we had fun chatting with travelers and expats- one who runs a dive shot on Isla and is married to a French woman.  She jumped up at every goal and danced around shouting "Allez Les Bleus"- although we were rooting for the underdog, Croatia, this was a great way to kick off the day. 

Southern tip of Isla Mujeres

Iguana master

Happy Jay

From there we wanted to explore the rest of the island, so we rented a motorbike and hit the road.  I'm not sure Jay is ever happier than when he is zipping around a bike.  He doesn't care that the body is cracked, pieces are hanging down, or that strange noises come from the exhaust.  We headed south and explored where the locals live, stopping at the southern tip to take in the bluest of blue water.  Iguanas the size of cats scuttled across the cliff side and we watched kids play soccer and yell excitedly.  

Capilla de Guadalupe

Street Art on Isla Mujeres

We stopped at an amazing church across from Mango Cafe, laughing because we loved Mango Tree in Bali.  Capilla de Guadalupe sits cliff side and was empty as we took a minute to pray for our blessed with on Isla Mujeres.  

Ice Bar, Isla Mujeres

We had seen most of the island in our hour bike tour, but Jay still had gas and time to burn so we continued to loop through the colorful streets.  The heat and humidity were at an all time high, so what happened next is not entirely our fault...we saw a billboard for Ice Bar, completely made from ice and boasting a negative degree temperature.  We were in.

As we arrived, it was clearly a tourist trap, but we couldn't be bothered.  They threw fur ponchos over us and we entered our own private, freezing room.  Turtle sculptures, flashing lights, a disco ball, and pounding music greeted us.  And for the first time since we arrived in Mexico, we were cold.  We lasted twenty minutes and our bartender in his zip up hoodie laughed as he poured us drinks in ice cups.  I will never forget Jay running around the icy room trying to stay warm, his fur poncho flying behind him.

We still had drink coupons (thank you to our tourist package), so we warmed up outside and were quickly approached by four rowdy women from Houston who were eyeing the only empty seats in the area- at our table.  We welcomed them over and realized the full tourist capacity of this spot- boats from Cancun were dropping people by the hundred to eat at this buffet, experience the ice bar, and continue to drink unlimited beverages all in a short time span before the boat left.  Needless to say, they were hilarious company and we embraced our full tourist hour.

Sunset on Isla Mujeres

Casa Boheme in Playa Del Carmen

Hopping back on the bike we wound our way back home to Playa Norte and somehow got all of our stuff back into our bags.  The next morning we hopped the ferry back to Puerto Juarez and jetted down to Playa del Carmen.  My mama, sister, and brother are meeting us here, so we took some down time in our spectacular Air BnB.  Casa Boheme is a gem that you would never expect behind the white iron gate next to a laundromat and convenience store.  It's a few blocks from the beach and the bustling 5th Avenue, but nestled among local living.  Beautifully designed and endlessly peaceful- a perfect example of affordable travel that outshines the luxury resorts every day of the week.

Isla Mujeres: Under Water

These beasts are easily 10-15 feet, but very friendly. They stay on the surface, open their mouths, and feed on plankton. We were advised not to touch the whale sharks until a fin literally slapped me across the face. Definitely a once in a lifetime experience, but a little on the touristy-side for Chantal and I. I tried to sneakily ditch my neon orange life vest, but was scolded because of strict regulations.  (Chantal: I'm rolling my eyes, because he tried to explain that he used to be a lifeguard.  Didn't translate...) There were times we had to fight other "snorkelers" in the water to get close, but they are amazing creatures. It was surreal to be swimming along-side them. 

After a couple hours of Whale Shark'n, we boated back towards the island. We were delightfully surprised by fresh ceviché prepared by the crew right in front of us. We enjoyed this meal as we sunbathed on the stern of the boat. This definitely put the guacamole on-top to a fun packed day.

After a little bit of research, Chantal and I both knew that we wanted to experience two things on the island: scuba diving the MUSA (underwater museum between Isla and Cancun) and snorkeling with the whale sharks.

We wanted to wet our feet right away, so we booked scuba with Carey Dive Center for the day after we arrived on Isla Mujeres. We were on the boat and at our dive site at 8AM, and it's highly recommended to get out early to beat the scuba-rush. It has been close to a year since Chantal and I last dove, but it was like riding a bike. Our buoyancy was on point. We descended down 12-15 meters and enjoyed the abundance of life around us. We saw sting rays, groupers, lobster, and fish that matched every color of the rainbow. We finned our way to the underwater museum, and it was absolutely breathtaking. It consisted of over 500 life-size sculptures that are primarily used to promote coral life and lessen crowds at surrounding natural reefs. After 45 minutes, we boarded the boat, sped to Atlantis for a reef dive on the southern tip of Isla. We absolutely loved Carey Dive Center, recommend them to anyone who wants to dive in Cancun/Isla Mujeres, and see why they're a 5-star on TripAdvisor.com.  Gilberto and Alex were our dive masters, and their entire crew was first class. 

We don't like to beat around the bush, so we scheduled our whale shark snorkeling tour for the following day. This was described to us a world-class experience, as these are some of the biggest sharks in the world, and we paid a pretty penny (pesos) for it. We hopped on a boat of 10 and were out to sea Saturday morning. After a bumpy ride for an hour or so, we pulled up to the whale shark site filled with a hundred boats. We took turns in pairs with the guide as he pinpointed whale sharks for us to hunt down and follow.

Isla Mujeres: A Love Affair

Not since Gili T have we fallen so hard for an island, but Isla Mujeres is our main squeeze.  If we don't come home, check here first.  We might be swimming with the whale sharks, diving in the aquamarine waters, eating lobster quesadillas, or sipping mezcal with live music around us and cats at our feet.  This island was made for us.

The smooth ferry ride took less than half an hour from Puerto Juarez, and the boat was near empty.  $15 gets you a roundtrip ticket, and as you coast through the Caribbean you can feel yourself shaking off the Cancun crowds and clichés. Although Isla Mujeres isn't as untouched as it once was, it's welcoming and quaint.  We walked a few blocks from the dock to Posada del Mar, where we have a view of the ocean from the third floor.  We're in Heaven: across from Playa Centro, around the corner from Carey Dive Center, motorbike rentals on the corner.

The streets around us are lined with colorful shops, eclectic restaurants, music, and laughter.  Javi's boasts a mean ceviche; Mamacita has a lobster quesadilla and craft cocktail list that are spiced with host-Victor's banter, and the cactus that comes with the chips is a treat.  Mentiras is a must for al pastor tacos and the mezcal mixed drinks help cut the heat.  Feel like a kid again as you eat breakfast in a rope swing hung from the ceiling at Lola Valentina- Jay's Mexican Benedict was gone before I could try it, and my tofu scramble came with some of the best green salsa I've ever had.  Need a break for local cuisine?  Try Sushi Asia Caribe, owned by an American couple who raised their kids here after relocating decades ago.  Some fusion menus suffer because they try to do too much, but Asian Caribe does it all well.  My dragon roll smiled at me and the coconut shrimp is pan seared, not deep fried.  We watched plate after plate served around us, each greeted with delight.  It's hard not to marvel at each moment in Isla Mujeres- it's safe, cozy, clean, and vibrant.  

Sushi Asia Caribe 

Mentiras

We love the street art and being able to walk shore to shore in a few minutes.  The sand is soft and you can see to the bottom in every direction- no sea weed, no coral: pristine bottoms. Each house has different details, colors, and decorations- I love the house with the swan staircase and am a big fan of "Mexico time" (1 Mexican minute is about 15-20 American minutes).  As the sun goes down, you can hear the guitar strings dancing in the breeze and life can't really seem to get much better. 

First Stop, Cancun

We kicked off our month in the Yucatan with a quick stop in Cancun. If you don't know how Chantal and I like to travel, we like to stay out of the tourist traps in general. We steered clear of the all-inclusive resorts that Cancun offers, and opted for a convenient location for a day en route to our second stop, Isla Mujeres.

After minor delays in the airport, a quick ADO bus ride, and attempted taxi negotiation, we landed at Hotel Del Sol. This is not your 5-star hotel with pools and jacuzzis, but it has air conditioning, a great rooftop deck, and 24-hour Mexican music videos on the television. More importantly, it's right across the street from Puerto Juarez so we'll have an easy transition to Isla Mujeres. There's an OXXO convenient store across the street and a local restaurant called Mandinga. It's a cheap taxi or bus ride into the city, but generally a quiet area with more locals than tourists. 

View from Hotel del Sol rooftop 

El Meco

I woke up the next morning to Chantal saying, "I have a plan!" Here we go, Day 1 is about to get interesting. There are ancient Mayan ruins 2 miles away ("1 mile-ish" according to Chantal), and we "adventured" our way there on foot. 30 minutes later, we showed up to El Meco drenched in sweat, payed 55 pesos each, and walked around the Mayan pyramid and other ruin buildings. Massive iguanas inhabit the area, and at one point Chantal and I felt like we were getting surrounded. The site was basically empty, and it is a rare, must-go if you are in Cancun and want to get out of the tourist areas.

This day also happened to be World Cup Semi-Finals, and I really wanted to watch the Croatia vs. England game. After asking local taxi drivers, we landed on La Taberna in downtown Cancun, which reminded us of a Mexican Hooters. It was packed for the game and tequila was flying as Croatia won 2-1 in extra time... Go Croatia, beat France!

We enjoyed the rest of the day by wandering through downtown Cancun, exploring our way all the way back to our hotel. Day 1 complete, with 9 miles clocked.

Street art in Downtown Cancun

The streets of Puerto Juarez

We'll be on Isla Mujeres until Monday, so check back in- we'll be diving and hopefully seeing the whale sharks!

Heading South

Hola, amigos! We've been grounded for a few months (aka working) but we take off tomorrow morning for a month long adventure through the Yucatan and Quintana Roo, Mexico. We've got two small carry on bags and will be navigating Mexico by bus and boat, docking in Isla Mujeres, Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Merida, Rio Lagartos, and Holbox.  

We hope you'll come along for our scuba adventures, Mayan ruin exploration, and foodie tour.  Also, if you're never heard of "cenotes", get excited.  The peninsula is limestone and sunk down in certain spots to create majestic caves and pools.  Some connect to the ocean and are fresh water on top, salt water on the bottom.  Apparently you can feel the shift as you're diving.    

Jay is updating music and we hope you enjoy photos of this beautiful world. See you back on the mainland in August.  

The Best of Uluwatu

Bukit Cafe Tomato Egg Bake and Bacon

Single Fin Sundays

Single Fin

Fresh juice at the Corner Cafe

Bukit Cafe Breakfast Burrito 

Suka

After two months in our Uluwatu nook, we're sad to leave but feel accustomed to life in Southern Bali and ready to release our "Best of Uluwatu" list to link you with some of our favorites.  Many of these places you'll need; some of them, you'll want; others you'll wonder how you lived without.  We agree on most, but for a few categories you'll see our personal thoughts...overall, you'll can't go wrong in Uluwatu.  

The best motorbike rental company...

• Ulu's Family, on the right as you turn off towards Single Fin
• Safe bikes, deals for renting for longer periods of time, personable service

The best place to buy, rent, or customize a surf board...

• White Monkey Surf Shop

The best nightlife...

• Single Fin, Sunday Nights
• You have to get there early to get a table, but even if you can't get one you'll enjoy an epic sunset, bird's eye view of awesome surf, great DJs, and people from all over the world

The best driver...

• Mario, WhatsApp +62 896-9832-4488
• Kind, helpful, and so reliable

The best activity coordinator...

• Agung, WhatsApp +62 896-8393-0428
• Organized Mt. Batur, secret waterfalls, Gili transport and beyond
• We met him back in February and he's a gem

The best laundry...

• Padang Padang Laundry, across from Buddha Soul; this small place accounts for every item when you drop it off, giving you a copy of that record that you bring back for pickup
• Laundry smells great and is nicely folded, but they get busy and often need two full days

The best dive company...

• Bali International Diving Professionals
• Avandy Djunaidi is the Yoda of diving; don't learn anywhere else. (Note: He's not technically in Uluwatu, but he'll arrange transport and he knows underwater Bali better than anyone else.)

The best daytime beach...

• If it's low tide, get down to Single Fin and head left though the caves.
• You'll find a secret beach with shipwreck ruins and a lot of privacy

The best sunset...

• Balangan Beach Sunset Point
• Use maps.me to get here through the Bingin Beach entrance; the black sands are worth it

The best place to get a book...

• Yeye's is an Uluwatu staple- great food, beautiful atmosphere, awesome gift shop, and huge selection of books
• Trade two you've read for one that you want

The best breakfast...

• Bukit Cafe- anything on the menu
• Buddha Soul- the chocolate smoothie bowl, and all of their other healthy options, will keep you coming back 
  • Be sure to try Om Burger for lunch (same owner, epic black rice buns)
• Corner Cafe- There are two, and they're both great.  Cash only, but great prices.

Best juices and smoothies

• Yoga Searcher- fresh, healthy, organic (you can do yoga in the back and even book villas there)

The best Italian food...

• La Baracca is a newcomer to the Uluwatu scene, but the owners are from Rome and their food is exceptional (Jay's Pick)
  • Beautiful nighttime ambiance and personable service
• Rolling Fork is one of our favorite places to enjoy a long, slow, blogging dinner (Chantal's pick)
  • Homemade pasta is a must, and the lava cake will make you wish you started with dessert

The best milkshake...

• Suka Espresso has pretty much the best EVERYTHING
• Their Unicorn Milkshake is unbelievable 
  • This isn't about a milkshake, but the Lemme Wrap (chicken wrap) will change your life.

Last But Not Least: Lembongan

Blue Lagoon, Ceningan island

As I sit down to type one of our final posts of the summer, I'm at a loss for words and feeling so many emotions at once.  Our final days in Uluwatu passed with the beautiful simplicity that marked all of our time here and I can now testify that you can feel nostalgia for a place before you even leave it.  

I missed it as I lived it: those final days at our favorite restaurants, waving to our summer neighbors who'd become part of our daily lives, and waking up without a big plan or agenda.  I missed the cows as we sped by them on our motorbike; I missed Jay's curly summer hair blowing in my face as he wove us through our familiar streets; I missed the dark walks home where you could see every star in the sky.  I missed Jay's big smile as he burst in from a great surf session.  I missed the wifi being unreliable and being deeply present in everything we did.  I missed the sound of the morning rooster and the unknown creature that made another special noise all summer.  I missed the joy that radiates from the people here, which is more beautiful than any of the breathtaking places we've been lucky enough to see.

View from our room at Song Lembung Huts, lembongan

When a place becomes part of you, you know you've been more than a tourist.  You've carved out a tiny piece of your life and heart to leave behind.  I think that's what it means to travel- and, for me, to live.  I hope we've spread as much love and joy as we've received.  

We jammed our suitcases full and took off to our last stop.  Last, but not least, an island half an hour from the southeast part of Bali: Nusa Lembongan.  Lembongan is commonly described as "Bali 10 years ago" and is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen.  

The Song Lamgung huts sit on Coconut Bay, near the popular Mushroom Bay, and we can hear the waves crash as we fall asleep at night.  The deck of our hut is set into the cliffside and overlooks a quiet, aquamarine bay, decorated by small colorful boats and light surf. 

Yesterday, we walked about 10 miles exploring the island, crossing the bridge to the tiny sister island, Nusa Ceningan, finding secret beaches and some of the most breathtaking cliff views.  We passed through tiny villages, greeted warmly by everyone, and got lost on the same paths that eventually took us exactly where we were supposed to be.  We watched the ocean form whirlpools that sparkled and roared with the blues and greens that never look real in photos.  

We watched waves hit the cliff so hard they erupted and misted us high above.  We lay out sarongs and watched the sun drop in front of us, a ball of fire dancing through slivers of clouds and painting them cotton candy pink.  We stopped taking photos because they simply pale in comparison.  

Yellow bridge from Lembongan to Nusa Ceningan

Nusa Ceningan

Blue Lagoon, Nusa Ceningan

Secret Beach, Nusa Ceningon

Today, we explored Nusa Penida's underwater world, equally as majestic as the surface.  Our "dive monster" (as our diver master at Tamarind Divers wanted to be called) navigated us through heavy currents that basically channeled us across the most incredible coral reef walls, like astronauts flying through space.  We saw lobsters and eels, hidden in rocky crevices, big tunas, turtles, and so many colorful fish that it was hard to know where to look.  This was the clearest of all the places we've dived, and it was easy to see why Lembongan is a world renowned spot for scuba.  The locals call to each, boat to boat, laughing and smiling and endlessly joyful.

Sunset Beach, Lembongan

Waiting on sunset

There's a contentedness here, which stems from a simplicity of living in the moment- not for a big promotion, or saving for a new car, or a bigger house.  Everyone works together, and everyone is relational.  They want to know where you come from, they want to share their stories, they want you to enjoy the day as much as they are.  And that's how I know that joy is infectious, as much as stress and as much as negativity.  It is also how I know that joy is not a better job, or a nicer car, or even the next awesome trip.  

Joy is a choice and it's about people- how you treat them, how you treat yourself, and how you treat the world.  If you can respect all of those things, and appreciate them as they are, then there is joy.  It is not a place.  It is not a different day.  It is not losing 10 pounds.  It is not winning the lottery.  It is no more available on a Sunday than it is on a Monday.  It's all around you.

So that's what we're bringing back- and hopefully a bag that's under 50 pounds.    

Sunny Side Up Tropical Music Festival

Potato Head is an Awesome Venue

Monkey Whisperer

Here we are, with our epic trip on the homestretch. It’s been an amazing adventure-filled journey, and we are taking it all in with one more full week in our rooted town of Uluwatu before heading to Lembongan to close it out. We truly do feel like locals around here as we are recognized and waved to with a big smile by many of the locals along the main road. We have left our mark on this town and have been privileged to call it home for the past 2 months. Chantal and I spent a few days in Ubud when we were here in February, and we both agreed that we should revisit the food and yogi capital of Bali with a side of a monkey forest. For the movie lovers, Ubud is shown in “Eat, Pray, Love” and really does a great job showing the culture and arts of this hipster area.

Lazy Cat Cafe Entrance, Central Ubud

Ubud Temple Architecture

On a whim, we booked a one-night stay in a villa walking distance from central Ubud, packed a small backpack, and zipped ourselves up there on the motor scooter. This was, by far, the longest journey we made on the scooter that composed of 34 miles of local roads, highways, tolls, and bridges over the beautiful Bali Sea. Mind you, this was a 2 hour trek through towns, cow-filled country lands, traffic areas that we weaved through, and uneven terrain, but we flew through like the locals we were.

We arrived in Ubud before check-in to get a head start to the day. We dropped our bag at the villa and hit the town running. Ubud gives off a strong energy that you can feel, with lifted cafés overlooking the streets, detailed and vibrant architecture, busy roads, and people walking in every direction. There was one “touristy” place that we had been before and had to go back to, and that was the Sacred Monkey Forest… dun dun dunnnn. I absolutely fell in love with the monkeys last time (as much as they fell in love with me) and I had to catch up with the homies to see how they’ve been.

Warm welcome

Hello monkey

Entering the forest, the monkeys were everywhere, and the tourists were holding bananas above their heads begging for a monkey to jump on them. If anything, the furry friends of mine would run up their backs, rip the banana out of their hands and scurry off before the tourist's friend could take a picture of the act. Little did they know, the “Monkey Whisperer” was in the building. I went up to the first group of monkeys I saw, calmly put my arm up to them, looked them dead in the eye, and gave a little wink. With no exaggeration, these guys ran up on me, sat on my shoulders and arms, and chilled while random tourists jealously took pictures. “This guy doesn’t need bananas? Who does he think he is?” “None of your business, ma’am. Have a nice day.”

Monkey Whisperer

Secret Handshake

I gently let my friends hop off, and walked away. It was one of those "drop the mic, and walk off stage" moments. Chantal and I enjoyed walking around the monkey forest, taking a bunch of action shots of each other with our furry friends.

We built up an appetite from walking around the streets of Ubud and running with the monkeys, and I almost forgot about the fried duck that I have craved since our last trip to Ubud. I had to have the Bebek Fried Duck. Chantal researched the best spots for it, and we enjoyed an amazing duck dinner with huge geckos crawling above our heads. “Excuse me sir, is that huge reptile-looking thing real up there?” “Oh, it's just gecko.” Good ol’ Indonesia for ya.

We did Ubud right for the 24 hours we had there, and had an awesome villa to sleep in with my favorite bug nets that surrounded the bed. The villa was called Kampoeng Joglo Abangan, and I definitely recommend it for only $40/night. We embarked on our journey back to Uluwatu the next morning and traveled safe and sound, with a pit stop at a local McDonalds. For some reason, the McDoubles and Fish Fillet just tasted so much better in Indonesia. What a great trip, yet again!

Crispy Bebek (DUCK) at Cafe Wayan, Ubud

McDonalds Jimbaran

The Soaked Survivors

Shorelines of Gili 

Yesterday we were able to get on a fast boat back to Bali, though the company informed us we'd be going to a completely different dock because of weather.  We didn't care, so long as we could get off the Gilis.  So at noon, we shoved our way onto a boat and pushed our way to the top deck.  On our ride to the Gilis, we had been in the seats on the lower level, and with small windows the crashing and swaying felt intense.  We decided the covered, open air deck would give us a nice breeze (and we'd be the first to see land).

About 20 other people had the same idea, and as we set for our three hour ride, the guys running the boat put on club music, started selling beers, and it seems liked like a sunny, good time.  People were up dancing and everyone was smiling.  

Jay and I sat next to older German couples, who had also gotten stuck on the Gilis.  Their boat had needed maintenance the day before, so they'd decided to wait a day and rebook with a different company.  Apparently the boat they avoided had been overloaded, a lady fell overboard, and people were throwing up because of the chop.  We felt lucky to be on our fun boat, wind in our hair.

It started with gentle sprays of water, misting our faces.  And before we could even register, waves of water were spraying onto the boat.  We were all soaked in minutes, and remained that way for the final two hours of the trip.  The guys running the boat seemed unphased, and danced on.  

All we could do was laugh and I kept thinking, "I've never done this before."  We showed up at the dock soaked and shivering, all passengers smiling at each other and making remarks of survivors.  We are glad to be back to Uluwatu, thankful for our beautiful time on the Gilis and taking in our last week before our final days in Lembongan. 

The cutest breakfast at Manusia Dunia 

Snorkling Gili Meno

Stylizing the Ombok pool

my favorite wall on gili air

Look closely at my watermelon juice!

leaving our mark on gili meno

Long Hair Long Life

Gili Air, although initially peaceful and undeniably charming, came with a series of unfortunate events.  (Note: There are no pictures with this post, as it has not been pretty.) It started off simply enough; I came down with a cold and sneezed my way around the island, then got badly congested.  Not the end of the world.  I sat reading in a beanbag chair one afternoon as Jay went out to snorkel. 

He wasn’t out long when I saw him returning, figuring the snorkeling wasn’t very good.  I should know Jay better, and my adrenaline finally kicked in when he calmly said, “I may need your help.”

As he approached he presented his middle toe, covered in tiny spines from some creature and turning purple.  “I don’t think this is good,” he said.  About a 20 minute walk from our villa, I knew he needed tweezers and alcohol (which I should carry in a fanny pack at this point) so I took off sprinting and told him to ask for the wifi and start Googling.

When I got to the villa (not pretty in my congested state) my wifi clicked in and I had a message from Jay (and Google): sea urchin. Only my Jay would get hit by a sea urchin on the top of his foot.  I grabbed the supplies and sprinted back.  In my haste I’d forgotten my sandals, so hot sand added an extra element of fun to my run.

When I got there he was soaking the toe in vinegar, which we now know is the immediate “go to” for sea urchin stings.  It breaks up the venom.  I did my best to surgically remove the spines and we applied vinegar and alcohol until Jay was ready to walk.  Since we were walking around the island, we decided to finish our walk and ended up finding a Medical Center, aka a room with some stuff in it. (No tissues.  Out of tissues.)

They popped Jay on a table and told him the vinegar was a smart move, and really the only thing that works on sea urchin attacks. They did need to break up the stings as best as possible, so his body could absorb the poison and heal.  They picked up a contraption that looked like a miniature golf ball and proceeded to whack the toe and all of the purple spots repeatedly.  It looked incredibly painful, but Jay handled it like a champ and I shuffled through the shelves to find a decongestant.

I was still stuffy the next morning, so sent Jay scuba diving (his toe was successfully healing) and headed to the dock to book our speedboat back to Bali the next day.

Imagine my surprise when I approached our boat company’s counter and presented my tickets, only to be told: “No fast boats today or tomorrow.”  My series of questions and disbelief in my voice seemed to confuse them, but I managed to learn that the government had grounded all fast boats to and from the Gili Islands because of weather.  Our alternative?  A 9 hour slow boat.  My congested head started to spin.

How long would this ban last?  Ask the government.  Great.  Can I get their number?  As you can imagine, I was not the only confused tourist on the dock.  But we seemed to be the only ones concerned.  Apparently the locals are accustomed to boat schedules being suspended on a whim. 

So we made a series of choices.  I declared that I would not get on a boat for 9 hours (we still may have to…) We figured we needed a hotel for an extra night, anyway, so why not see the last Gili Island.  So here we are.  On Gili Meno.  Hoping the winds swing in our favor and we can get back to Bali tomorrow.

Last night we layed on the beach watching the movie, "Lion" on bean bag chairs, eating fresh BBQ, realizing that island life has its perks, so long as you adjust your clock with the trade winds, have some patience, and watch out for sea urchins.  As the locals say every time they pass us, “Long hair, long life.” No rush.  Couldn’t go anywhere if we wanted to.

Oh, and Jay's toe is fine.   

Already August

Manusia Dunia Green Lodge, Gili Air

I have no idea how it is already August.  Time is a funny thing.  Some lazy afternoons seem to last forever and then all of a sudden the plans we made and adventures we dreamed up have become stories, and photographs, and memories.  Our neatly packed bags are strewn across islands, jammed with sea shells, horse shoes, maps, tickets, and a whole lot of life. 

I'm sitting on our porch on a tiny island called Gili Air.  Jay is sleeping in while I sip tea and blog to the sound of the rooster crowing.  We spent our last days on Gili Trawangan catching breathtaking sunsets and exploring life under water.

Exile Beach Sunset Point, Gili Trawangan

Jay and I love scuba.  I think Jay's as at home in the water as he is on land and scuba is the perfect fit for us.  On the Gili Islands, you take boats out to different spots and our first stop was Turtle Point.  The boat was packed with people and while heading to the spot the locals throw wetsuits, booties, fins, and vests at divers.  Do they fit?  Well enough.  They didn't ask for proof of our certification or number of dives.  The honor system is alive and well in Indonesia. 

The dive groups are small, and Jay and I had one other girl and a "dive master" accompanying us.  (I put that in quotes because we knew he was a certified dive master about as much as he knew we were certified at all.  Honor system.) 

When it was our turn we quickly checked our tanks and suited up, sitting on the edge of the boat like we'd seen others do.  Mind you, we entered from the shore on previous dives so entering the water by boat was new.  I asked a few questions and was quickly shushed by Indiana Jay.  "Just lean back!" he said.  And we did.  And we were fine. 

Turtle Point, north of Gili Meno

As quickly as we fell backwards off the boat, our dive master said, "Let's go down," and our adventure began.  Jay and I, pun intended, dove right in, feeling grateful that we were trained by the legend, Avandy.  We knew exactly what we were doing and had a great dive.  I tend to overthink things, and this trip has been a great lesson in running on instincts and just "doing".  

So many parts of life you can only figure out as you go.  I'm learning that more every day. 

Massive turtles and eels and colorful coral were everywhere.  I can't even put into words our time under water.  It makes us awestruck every time.  Tomorrow we will dive again off Gili Air, the smaller Gili Island closest to Lombok.  Stay tuned for that.

But how did we get to Gili Air?  Funny you should ask.  There are two boat options: slow boat and fast boat done by private charters.  You can imagine which one is the bargain price, and at this point probably know that Jay and I always take the bargain price.  For about $4 USD a person, we took the slow boat (40 minutes) from Gili T to Gili Air.  I don't know that "slow" is the right adjective for the boat; I like to call it the adventure boat. 

If the boat looks sideways, it's because it is.

But we made it to the Gili Air dock

My most vivid memories of those 40 minutes are water flying in, the boat careening side to side, and planks popping up as people walked down the middle of the boat.  You get what you pay for.  I eyed the life vests figuring out a strategy to float our bags and use that flotation system like a kick board to get to shore.  Luckily, this terrible idea never had to be tested.  

The shoreline approached, and the bluish green waters welcomed us to another beautiful island.  Gili Air is even smaller and more remote than Gili T, with all the charm that comes with that remoteness and simplicity.  We are staying at Manusia Dunia Green Lodge, where there are rechargeable lanterns because the electricity often goes out island-wide.  This happened twice during our dinner last night, and the live band just kept on singing.  Jay and I, having forgot our lanterns, walked home in the dark and fireworks erupted over one of the other Gili Islands. Life here doesn't seem real sometimes.  

As we head into the last two weeks of our trip, we're soaking it all up and missing all of our family and friends back home.  We can't wait to share our travels with you.  Thanks to everyone reading along with us- wishing you a beautiful August. 

Reading deck at Manusia Dunia, Gili Air

Peace on the porch, Manusia Dunia, Gili Air

Shells of Gili

Gili Air transport