Wrapping up Isla

Our last day on Isla Mujeres fell on World Cup, and we watched France come out the winner at Nash's Sports Bar.  It was an equal split between Croatia and France fans, and we had fun chatting with travelers and expats- one who runs a dive shot on Isla and is married to a French woman.  She jumped up at every goal and danced around shouting "Allez Les Bleus"- although we were rooting for the underdog, Croatia, this was a great way to kick off the day. 

Southern tip of Isla Mujeres

Southern tip of Isla Mujeres

Iguana master

Iguana master

Happy Jay

Happy Jay

From there we wanted to explore the rest of the island, so we rented a motorbike and hit the road.  I'm not sure Jay is ever happier than when he is zipping around a bike.  He doesn't care that the body is cracked, pieces are hanging down, or that strange noises come from the exhaust.  We headed south and explored where the locals live, stopping at the southern tip to take in the bluest of blue water.  Iguanas the size of cats scuttled across the cliff side and we watched kids play soccer and yell excitedly.  

Capilla de Guadalupe

Capilla de Guadalupe

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Street Art on Isla Mujeres

Street Art on Isla Mujeres

We stopped at an amazing church across from Mango Cafe, laughing because we loved Mango Tree in Bali.  Capilla de Guadalupe sits cliff side and was empty as we took a minute to pray for our blessed with on Isla Mujeres.  

Ice Bar, Isla Mujeres

Ice Bar, Isla Mujeres

We had seen most of the island in our hour bike tour, but Jay still had gas and time to burn so we continued to loop through the colorful streets.  The heat and humidity were at an all time high, so what happened next is not entirely our fault...we saw a billboard for Ice Bar, completely made from ice and boasting a negative degree temperature.  We were in.

As we arrived, it was clearly a tourist trap, but we couldn't be bothered.  They threw fur ponchos over us and we entered our own private, freezing room.  Turtle sculptures, flashing lights, a disco ball, and pounding music greeted us.  And for the first time since we arrived in Mexico, we were cold.  We lasted twenty minutes and our bartender in his zip up hoodie laughed as he poured us drinks in ice cups.  I will never forget Jay running around the icy room trying to stay warm, his fur poncho flying behind him.

We still had drink coupons (thank you to our tourist package), so we warmed up outside and were quickly approached by four rowdy women from Houston who were eyeing the only empty seats in the area- at our table.  We welcomed them over and realized the full tourist capacity of this spot- boats from Cancun were dropping people by the hundred to eat at this buffet, experience the ice bar, and continue to drink unlimited beverages all in a short time span before the boat left.  Needless to say, they were hilarious company and we embraced our full tourist hour.

Sunset on Isla Mujeres

Sunset on Isla Mujeres

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Casa Boheme in Playa Del Carmen

Casa Boheme in Playa Del Carmen

Hopping back on the bike we wound our way back home to Playa Norte and somehow got all of our stuff back into our bags.  The next morning we hopped the ferry back to Puerto Juarez and jetted down to Playa del Carmen.  My mama, sister, and brother are meeting us here, so we took some down time in our spectacular Air BnB.  Casa Boheme is a gem that you would never expect behind the white iron gate next to a laundromat and convenience store.  It's a few blocks from the beach and the bustling 5th Avenue, but nestled among local living.  Beautifully designed and endlessly peaceful- a perfect example of affordable travel that outshines the luxury resorts every day of the week.

 

 

Isla Mujeres: Under Water

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These beasts are easily 10-15 feet, but very friendly. They stay on the surface, open their mouths, and feed on plankton. We were advised not to touch the whale sharks until a fin literally slapped me across the face. Definitely a once in a lifetime experience, but a little on the touristy-side for Chantal and I. I tried to sneakily ditch my neon orange life vest, but was scolded because of strict regulations.  (Chantal: I'm rolling my eyes, because he tried to explain that he used to be a lifeguard.  Didn't translate...) There were times we had to fight other "snorkelers" in the water to get close, but they are amazing creatures. It was surreal to be swimming along-side them. 

After a couple hours of Whale Shark'n, we boated back towards the island. We were delightfully surprised by fresh ceviché prepared by the crew right in front of us. We enjoyed this meal as we sunbathed on the stern of the boat. This definitely put the guacamole on-top to a fun packed day.

After a little bit of research, Chantal and I both knew that we wanted to experience two things on the island: scuba diving the MUSA (underwater museum between Isla and Cancun) and snorkeling with the whale sharks.

We wanted to wet our feet right away, so we booked scuba with Carey Dive Center for the day after we arrived on Isla Mujeres. We were on the boat and at our dive site at 8AM, and it's highly recommended to get out early to beat the scuba-rush. It has been close to a year since Chantal and I last dove, but it was like riding a bike. Our buoyancy was on point. We descended down 12-15 meters and enjoyed the abundance of life around us. We saw sting rays, groupers, lobster, and fish that matched every color of the rainbow. We finned our way to the underwater museum, and it was absolutely breathtaking. It consisted of over 500 life-size sculptures that are primarily used to promote coral life and lessen crowds at surrounding natural reefs. After 45 minutes, we boarded the boat, sped to Atlantis for a reef dive on the southern tip of Isla. We absolutely loved Carey Dive Center, recommend them to anyone who wants to dive in Cancun/Isla Mujeres, and see why they're a 5-star on TripAdvisor.com.  Gilberto and Alex were our dive masters, and their entire crew was first class. 

We don't like to beat around the bush, so we scheduled our whale shark snorkeling tour for the following day. This was described to us a world-class experience, as these are some of the biggest sharks in the world, and we paid a pretty penny (pesos) for it. We hopped on a boat of 10 and were out to sea Saturday morning. After a bumpy ride for an hour or so, we pulled up to the whale shark site filled with a hundred boats. We took turns in pairs with the guide as he pinpointed whale sharks for us to hunt down and follow.

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Isla Mujeres: A Love Affair

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Not since Gili T have we fallen so hard for an island, but Isla Mujeres is our main squeeze.  If we don't come home, check here first.  We might be swimming with the whale sharks, diving in the aquamarine waters, eating lobster quesadillas, or sipping mezcal with live music around us and cats at our feet.  This island was made for us.

The smooth ferry ride took less than half an hour from Puerto Juarez, and the boat was near empty.  $15 gets you a roundtrip ticket, and as you coast through the Caribbean you can feel yourself shaking off the Cancun crowds and clichés. Although Isla Mujeres isn't as untouched as it once was, it's welcoming and quaint.  We walked a few blocks from the dock to Posada del Mar, where we have a view of the ocean from the third floor.  We're in Heaven: across from Playa Centro, around the corner from Carey Dive Center, motorbike rentals on the corner.

The streets around us are lined with colorful shops, eclectic restaurants, music, and laughter.  Javi's boasts a mean ceviche; Mamacita has a lobster quesadilla and craft cocktail list that are spiced with host-Victor's banter, and the cactus that comes with the chips is a treat.  Mentiras is a must for al pastor tacos and the mezcal mixed drinks help cut the heat.  Feel like a kid again as you eat breakfast in a rope swing hung from the ceiling at Lola Valentina- Jay's Mexican Benedict was gone before I could try it, and my tofu scramble came with some of the best green salsa I've ever had.  Need a break for local cuisine?  Try Sushi Asia Caribe, owned by an American couple who raised their kids here after relocating decades ago.  Some fusion menus suffer because they try to do too much, but Asian Caribe does it all well.  My dragon roll smiled at me and the coconut shrimp is pan seared, not deep fried.  We watched plate after plate served around us, each greeted with delight.  It's hard not to marvel at each moment in Isla Mujeres- it's safe, cozy, clean, and vibrant.  

Sushi Asia Caribe 

Sushi Asia Caribe 

Mentiras

Mentiras

We love the street art and being able to walk shore to shore in a few minutes.  The sand is soft and you can see to the bottom in every direction- no sea weed, no coral: pristine bottoms. Each house has different details, colors, and decorations- I love the house with the swan staircase and am a big fan of "Mexico time" (1 Mexican minute is about 15-20 American minutes).  As the sun goes down, you can hear the guitar strings dancing in the breeze and life can't really seem to get much better. 

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