Canggu
/Yesterday we set out on a 3 day excursion to Canggu, motorbiking up the western side of Bali. Canggu came into our plans for different reasons. Jay met a Bali enthusiast a few weeks before we left who insisted he see Canggu. I am a kombucha enthusiast and found Happy Kombucha's Instagram back in February, filled with beautiful displays of their super-healthy drink flavors amid dreamy Bali scenes; the company is based in Canggu and I was eager to see the area. A mini adventure brewed (kombucha pun intended).
We've had days of rain, but the sky cleared for our adventure and we jammed a backpack full of the things we'd need for the week. Jay's become a natural on the motorbike, following the locals up on sidewalks when the traffic is too busy on the streets. It's not my favorite trick, but we are getting places much faster. I'm squeezing his leg with my death grip less and less and can't complain because I get to see the beautiful world fly by (sometimes directly into our path, but that's a story for another time).
"Controlled chaos" is the best way I've heard the streets of Bali described. You have to just go for it, because if you stop and wait for it to be your turn you'll sit there all day. In a way, our trip is kind of like that- diving into life and going for it. Of course, obstacles pop up along the way. As we left Uluwatu the police flagged us down and asked to see Jay's driver's license. They gave us a whole song and dance about needing an international driver's license, which can only be obtained in the home country, and being subject to a fine, but we were "very lucky" and they would give us a "good deal" and allow us to "buy" a permit for the rest of our time here...in case we were stopped again. They hurried us, because they'd stopped the next bunch of confused tourists. I scrambled to find the 300,000 rupiah ($20 ish) for the scam permit, but didn't have the full amount in my pockets. As I started to dig through the backpack the man said, "Give me what you have. Special deal for you today," and settled for the lesser amount so they could "help" the next set of tourists. The European couple walking in looked terrified until I rolled my eyes. On the road again, with our very official handwritten permit.
We made one more stop on our way up, and it's my fault. I saw a Starbucks and had to see how it compared to my stateside addiction. The drinks were the same, but the bakery had a complete Bali twist. purple yam cake, pandan coconut brulee, and corned beef cowboy puff pastries shared space in the glass display. But my favorite part was the Hindu offering at the counter (found in all Balinese businesses) that included a cake and shot of espresso. Perfection.
We continued our journey north, with the highway crossing waterways and crowded city eventually giving way to rice paddies and narrow streets. We drove past our villa 4-5 times because the sign was tucked off to the side, but it was love at first sight when we saw Canggu and when we arrived at Ngeluwungan Boutique Villa. My name was written on the welcome board as we pulled up to the property, and the young staff hasn't stopped smiling since we arrived.
This villa is pure magic. It's a block from the beach, but nestled into rice paddies. You can count the number of rooms on one hand, and each is spacious and filled with beautiful wooden furniture. Plumeria flowers were scattered everywhere when we arrived and we enjoyed refreshing welcome drinks by the saltwater pool. It's a true oasis, and the skies were blue for the first time this week.
For dinner, we headed to nearby Echo Beach, which is filled with restaurants and shops along a spectacular black sand beach. Colorful bean bag chairs and umbrellas line the shore, and fresh fish is grilling from the open air restaurants. The sunset filled the sky with colors that only seem to exist in Bali, and Canggu found a special place in our hearts. We're excited to explore here the next few days.